Steve Orion UK wrote:Have you tried Dunelm Mill or al-Murad for fabric? I think they have nationwide stores, or maybe just yorkshire?
just a thought - steve
Fire retardent sprays and humans do NOT mix.
This means if for example, Paul takes two years to build his studio, he will take 20 years to get the acoustic perfect!!
OK, I know it wont be like that you get the drift!
MarkEdmonds wrote:Especially for Eric, I'll start with a :-) :-) :-) !
Today's topic is constructing fabric frames.
These frames are going to be wrapped with the final fabric selection (Scott - I'm still shopping around but I am planning for 36" width) and then mounted on the RW3 holding frames.
The concept is a piece of cake but the only problem I can see is getting the right angles correct. Is there a recognised technique for getting perfect right angles when you are using long thin strips of wood? The only solution I have at the moment is to buy a mitre clamp. If anyone knows of a simple clever way which involves minimal outlay, I'd be grateful to hear it.
When it comes to stapling the fabric, I have the option of a manual or powered stapler. I've done my final calculations now and I have to build 30 frames and staple 60metres of fabric. 60metres of fabric means stapling on all edges of course so that translates to probably 150m fabric length for stapling. This tends to favour a powered tool. However, I have no experience of these tools, both manual or powered. Therefore, I was wondering if there are any known good and bad points for each type. Has anyone been through this decision process before and have any advice on powered or manual staplers?
For mounting the fabric frames on the RW3 frames, I am simply going to use brass screws in screw cups as that will give a reasonable appearance.
As always, I am asking loads of questions without offering much in return but any feedback on the fabric topic will be gratefully received.
Barefoot put forth a comment on this size requirement some time back, and I've never been able to find it again - something to the effect of a minimum distance (in all directions, but NOT centered)from the woofer of 4 or 5 woofer diameters for a minimum baffle size. As I interpreted that statement, it would mean a baffle that extends FLAT in the EXACT same plane as the front of the speaker box for at least 4 times the woofer diameter in all 4 directions. IOW, if you had speakers with 8" woofers, the baffle should be flat for at least 32" in a radius from the woofer, but assymetrical (more flat space on successive sides, so that any artifacts from the edge of the extended baffle do NOT reinforce each other at the same frequency)
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