by archive » Wed Mar 31, 2004 4:16 am
From: "Sjoerd Koppert" <sjoerd@n...>
Date: Mon Jan 22, 2001 9:32 am
Subject: Re: Heating in converted garage studio
--- In acoustics@e????ups.com, SRF7@a... wrote:
> In a message dated 1/20/01 11:36:52 AM Pacific Standard Time,
> tlawhon@c... writes:
>
>
> > I live in northern California and it gets fairly cold during the
winter
> > (with snow) so heating is important. The entire structure is
approximately
> > 25' x 31' with 11' ceilings inside. The options here for energy
source are
> > electric, propane, wood, and something called monitor heat, which
is based
> > on kerosene. Any and all input is appreciated.
> >
> > Terry Lawhon
>
> Given that you are in CA you probably should let economical
operation drive
> your choice (windmills, might be cheapest in the long run).
>
> Any style of heater can be conveyed in a manner acousically
rational.
>
> Stay away from metal duct/vent/chimney work that crosses from the
mechanical
> room to the studio work spaces. Build a mechanical room and do any
required
> metal ducting directly from this space to the outside/attic.
>
> In connections to the workspaces use oversized flexible ducting.
Split leg
> the system to the different work areas as close to the supply fan
and main
> return as possible (just above the air handler). Run extra long
ess shaped
> runs to put curves in the duct work (sound doesn't go around
corners very
> well).
>
> If you do all of the above and you buy a quiet unit (some are much
noiser
> than others - talk about this to your HVAC supplier) you can
probably avoid
> building baffle boxes etc. I probably used about twice the length
of
> flexible duct that my rooms would normaly have required ... but I
can't hear
> ANYTHING from my system ... feeling the warm or cold air is the
only clue as
> to whether the system is on.
>
> Scott R. Foster
>
And then of cause there is insulated flexible duct, which goes around
corners like a dream and absorbs all sound.
>