Bought Sheetrock & Sound-Board...What go's on 1st?

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Bought Sheetrock & Sound-Board...What go's on 1st?

Postby ZapAxe » Mon Mar 01, 2004 3:26 am

I'm guessing that since this 'Sound-Board' stuff is very light weight & crumbles & flakes so easily that it go's on the studs 1st, then the sheet rock over that?
But my original walls to my home studio was not completed to the ceiling. They left it about a foot from the ceiling with just an opening for a doorway. The existing shorter walls are already sheetrocked. I've framed in the rest of the walls to the ceiling now & put in a heavy solid wood door. But to make the newer top of the walls & the older lower wall 'even' or the 'same' as the rest I figure I should just sheetrock the new upper part. I've thought about it, and thought what's the point of just 'Sound-Boarding the upper section only, and the to boot, the upper/lower sections will be different!
Ok, so I have all this Sound-Board..for which I have had ideas several possible uses besides the newer up section of the walls... Use it to cover my windows (I have my other thread here about treating the windows), use it for a vocal sound-booth that I intend to build.

Another thing...Can I paint or coat this 'Sound-Board' stuff? I mean if I fasten it over my windows it will flake & shed all over the place...and 'homey' don't like dat! So maybe I should use a Rubber Spray to coat it??? Is this ok?
Also if I use it for a make-shift semi-temp sound/vocal booth, I'll have light weight & coated panels that I can piece together when I need to have any isolation - Needed only from time to time when doing vocals, or whatever...

Btw, I'm not trying to make my home studio 'literally' sound proof, just help reduce sound from both sides.

Steve
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Postby Eric.Desart » Mon Mar 01, 2004 7:39 am

Hello ZAP

In principle it's never advisable to combine two isolation systems if not necessarilly needed for whatever reason.
Having part of a wall lined with with system y and part with system z, will cause the overal isolation to be dominated (in function of surface ratio) by the weakest points of the individual systems.
So if a wall is partly done in a certain manner, just continue in the same manner.

If you use soundboard then put the soundboard between the frame and the sheetrock.

You can paint soundboard.

General: Soundboard sound as sound-like-special. In fact you can often better substitute it by other solutions. But since you have it already......

Kind regards
Eric
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Postby ZapAxe » Tue Mar 02, 2004 2:34 am

Thanks Eric,

Yeah, that's what I figured!...No sence since the rest is of normal construction. I'll just do the rock on the upper area. The if needed I'll try to treat the room.

I can still utilize the 'painted' Sound-Board I suppose for the temp treating of my windows in the room, or movable panels for vocal isolation work.

..Or I could always take'm back to The Home Depot;)

[Quote]
"General: Soundboard sound as sound-like-special. In fact you can often better substitute it by other solutions. "

Just curious about these "other" solutions?

Steve
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Postby Rod Gervais » Tue Mar 02, 2004 3:14 am

ZapAxe wrote: Just curious about these "other" solutions?


Steve,

Other options - good old fashioned drywall - unlike the new modern miracle boards - this stuff actually works - and has been tested and proven to be effective on hundreds upon huundreds of different wall assemblies.

No need to invent the wheel - you need mass for these wall systems to work - and drywall provides it.

I would not expect very good results with sound board and window isolation issues - it really doesn't have very much mass.

Rod
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Postby ZapAxe » Tue Mar 02, 2004 4:00 am

Thanks Rod,

So it sounds as if this Sound-Board stuff is really a bunch of hype due to it's name.

I could barely lift one sheet of 3/4" SheetRock by myself. The Sound-Board on the other hand was a breeze...Hmmm...Less Mass! Makes sence!
I just figured the Sound-Board had some magical properties...Well not really "magical", but you get the picture.

So if I wanted to make movable baffles or panels for a put up/tear dowm make-shift vocal partition, this Sound-Board won't do good for that? I've heard of people using just sleeping bags hanging from the ceirling, so I figured this Sound-Board would do better that that!...?
Obviously SheetRock is too heavy for temp/makeshift applications.

Steve
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Postby Dan Nelson » Thu Mar 11, 2004 4:05 am

I finally found some answers on soundboard

From a study from Housing Research at CMHC
"Installing resilient furrings on wood stud partitions is much more effective than a fiberboard panel to mechanically decouple the gypsum board from the structure of the partition and hence to increase its sound transmission loss, especially above 250 Hz"
http://www.cmhc.ca/publications/en/rh-p ... 2-108.html

I recommend everyone read the paper it is short, but answers many questions I have had over the years. They tested 350 gypsum board wall designs, this a list of some of the findings

Dan
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Postby Paul Woodlock » Thu Mar 11, 2004 5:11 pm

Dan Nelson wrote:I finally found some answers on soundboard

From a study from Housing Research at CMHC
"Installing resilient furrings on wood stud partitions is much more effective than a fiberboard panel to mechanically decouple the gypsum board from the structure of the partition and hence to increase its sound transmission loss, especially above 250 Hz"
http://www.cmhc.ca/publications/en/rh-p ... 2-108.html

I recommend everyone read the paper it is short, but answers many questions I have had over the years. They tested 350 gypsum board wall designs, this a list of some of the findings

Dan


Greetings

It was interesting that they found the triple leaf to be better above 250Hz, but worse at low freqs.


Paul
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Postby ZapAxe » Fri Mar 12, 2004 4:29 am

Hi Dan,

Very interesting article, thanks!...Read it last night & once again tonight. This "decoupling" of the transmitted sound is something that I haven't gave much thought, and also the "resilient furrings".

I talked to a general contractor a couple of years ago who had been working on building a recording studio, & he was talking about how standard nails or screws can transmit certain frequencies. He went on telling me about the use of different methods used in place of the standard screw or nail. I think, in addition to using a special kind of nail and/or screw, they also used some kind of special fasteners used between the two joing sheet rock (or other board?) panels. Then over-laping the joints with more panels.
I'll assume that he did the rest as the above article talks about.

I'll look forward to my next home studio when I move to some property in a handfull of years. This next house may be my 'main stay' where I'll take the time to do it up completely for the ultimate sound proofing!

Steve
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Postby Scott R. Foster » Thu Mar 18, 2004 8:46 pm

Paul Woodlock wrote:It was interesting that they found the triple leaf to be better above 250Hz, but worse at low freqs.
Paul


That's right in line with what Eric has been telling us for a long time.

In fact, the results are a strong endorsement ofthis group's thinking in regard to partition design. Looks like we having been giving some pretty good advice after all.

Hats off to these fellows for their fine work, and Dan's digging it up for sharing.

Woot!

PS: IMO this link should be shared far and wide and the info archived for future reference [with due credit given of course].
SRF
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